100 Days Buildings (6mm) in 7 days - For Shako II

 Due to the size of the footprints of many of the buildings that encompassed the 100 Days, Waterloo Campaign, and the relative size of a Shako II Battalion on the table, I had to compromise. Although Total Battle Miniatures (TBM) has started production of 10mm Waterloo buildings, their footprint will still be to big for our battle.

TBM makes most of the village and towns in template form, made of latex, which is easy to paint with Acrylic paints. The buildings fit into recessed areas in the template and look fabulous. TBM use a system in that all the buildings are of a size that will fit any of the recesses, very clever! 

Onto the painting of the buildings and templates: I spray undercoated all the building black and then a second coat of Tan Earth (Coat d'Arms 524), leaving the roof black. 

The roofs were painted in a Deep Red (Miniature Paints 42) or Olive Drab (Coat d'Arms 502), Then Dry Brushed in places with Foundry Nipple pink (16A) or Faded Khaki  (Coat d'Arms 537), dependant of base colour. Thatch was Base, Tan Earth, dry brush an off white/ cream (I used Bone White), and then heavy dry brush Faded Khaki. I then dabbed some Olive Green (Coat d'Arms 226) on all the roofs for moss growth.

The White Walled buildings were stippled on, and the red brick walls were heavily dry bushed with the same red as the roofs. Shutters and doors were painted umber and then dry brushed Faded Khaki (the khaki dry brushing was all done at the same time, but I have broken it down for the sequences).

The next process was to paint all the ground and the bushes with Matt Earth (Humbrol Acrylic 29), then when dry Olive green for the bushes leaving a little earth colour to show through. Next was back to dry brushing with the Faded Khaki to highlight all the earth and heavy dry brush of the red brick walls. The penultimate process was to give a further highlight to lighten areas of  wear of wheel ruts, etc. Varnish and then flock

Now to find some nice storage boxes.

I started these on the 14th Feb and finished them on 20th Feb.

Plancenoit, showing one building out of it's recess.  

Smohain Village

Brain-le- Alleud village, which can also double as Quatre Bras.

Gemioncourt Farm (Quatre Bras)

 

Mont Saint-Jean

Papelotte Farm

Fichermont Chateau

 La Haye Saint, I always buy an extra building to use as a test model, so this extra one will either be used as La Haie or it will go for sale.

La Belle Alliance (Napoleon's HQ on the day)

The iconic Hougomont, held by the Guards all day.

From the South

Making Flags for you figures

 

 

Wargaming flags for you armies are readily available, whether it is for you unit of Hebrews in the Army of Moses or your Angel Guardian Marines of the 50K millennium. You just need to search them out on the www. 

I do the same as most and have various websites saved for this purpose, but occasionally I make my own. Here's how.

I use tomato puree type tubes. making sure they are thoroughly clean and dry.  

I then cut to shape and try for size.

Any off cuts, like where the "tails" are cut out are saved to be used as lance/ spear fanions

   

The examples I will be showing are broken figures,where the weapons have broken off. I have used and off cut of steel from a lance that was much too long.

I then curl the flag so that it fits around the pole.   

I then put some super glue on the central area of where the flag will sit on the pole. Once you start the next phase the glue will spread up and down the pole.

wrap the flag around the pole, with the "join" on the inside (ie: nearest the figures head), and push the end into the pole with snips, back of a stanley, etc.

   

I also cut the tassels into the top of the flag at this point. You can feather the tassels now, if required. you could also campaign them up be running the stanley knife off the edges, which will cut the flag to leave a Dishevelled look.

 

Two coats of thinned primer, dependant  on your pallette. Any block painting you do, make sure you thin the paint other wise it will crack when you shape it. Paint on your design. Once dry shape it carefully into whatever shape you want, then two coats of varnish and you are done.

 

I use the three foot rule for flags, if you can see it and it looks OK on the table, then it's done. Some of the close up aren't the greatest, but they do for me!

15mm Napoleonic Guards

   

28mm Crusades

 

28mm French Agincourt

 

Lord of the Rings 

 

Ogre Battle Standard

 

Paper Standards: downloaded and glued with PVA glue diluted 50/50 with water and shaped whilst wet. once dried, paint the edge of the flag to match the edge colour and to hide any white paper.  

Paper ones in use : 

 

   

28mm & 20mm Scenery & Markers

Some Scenery bits I have been working on

 A 28mm hovel, Back view

  

 Front

  

Interior

  

 

 A 28mm Cart with Sabot. The cart is MDF from 4ground, Oxen (Unsure of Make), Sabot is specially made by Charlie Foxtrot Models

  

 

 Another view 

 

 I have had these kicking around since my youth, Britains hedges. Have now recycled them into smoke markers for Rapid Fire, as they are the correct size 3" x 1". Black and then white arerosols "dusted" over, job done.

  

 

 20mm figures 

 

A couple of 20mm Desert buildings, purchased from Grubby tanks a few years ago:  

20mm WWII Buildings, I purchased some buildings on evilbay and after tarting them up a bit, here is the result. Used emulsion paint in the main.

   

This is a discontinued Mainly Military derelict farm that I managed to get one last unit out of!  

And a 20mm church from a car boot that had no roof or windows:

 

Here it is in use with the grave yard I scratch built:  

My 20/25mm Beau Geste fort from Village Green, has been home to 28mm Foreign Legion and 20mm Axis forces and French in WWII

  

The doors were molded in, so I cut them out and made some from coffee stirrers.  

Interior 

 

The Legion are marching to take it back!