Sunday, 14 August 2011

Kings of War Rules - A Review



Kings of War, A free, downloadable set of Fantasy rules from Mantic Games. WFB is now £45.00. www.manticgames.com/Home.html

On first read, you can see the similarity between it, and Warhammer Fantasy Battles, but read again and you will see slight subtleties that WFB lacks or over envasises. KoW are quick to learn fun and easy to play, but just like WFB  8th you need loads of troops,  but, the troops from Mantic are cheaper than GW, £25.00 for a box of forty Skeletons, as opposed to £62.00 for the same amount  from GW .

The rules are twelve pages short, and includes all the special rules that each army has. Three pages of introducing the rules and explaining what the stats do, 7 pages of the playing rules and two pages of the special rules, game set-up and winning/ losing the game.  

The game is alternate moves, you do everything, move, shoot/Magic, melee, then your opponent. Pre- measuring is allowed in KoW.

The game is played with a pointed army system from a troop (10 figs), to a regiment (20 figs) to a horde (40 + figs). The difference between each unit is Attacks and Nerve, the more troops the more dice you roll and the more nerve they have (safety in numbers).

Example of stat line for a regt:

                                                Sp           Me         Ra           De          At           Ne

Elf Bowman Regt              6              4+           4+           4+           10           6

Sp = Speed (your movement) , Me= Melee(your melee), Ra= Range (bows,etc), De=Defence (your Defence), At=Attack Dice(used for shooting and melee), Ne=Nerve (your morale)

MOVE- These rules allow you to double move if you go straight ahead, including charging, but any turns, then normal movement only.

SHOOT/MAGIC – You can move and shoot at a penalty, but there are a few exceptions that have to remain stationary to fire. Magic (Zap) is done in this phase but the caster normally has no penalty for moving. You use your attack dice to hit (equal or higher than your Ra). All hits are then re-rolled and you require equal or higher than opponents De to cause damaged to the unit. For each unit that receives damage, the shooter rolls for damaged units nerve.

 MELEE – As above but you use your Me stat. After the melee phase, you move your unit that charged back 1” and prepare to receive the opponents charge.

NERVE – After each of the Shoot and melee phases, the units that have taken damage are tested for nerve (morale) buy the player that caused the damage. As casualties accumulate the chances of passing the nerve test fall as to test, you roll 2 D6 add that to total casualties inflicted, plus/minus any modifiers (Banners/musicians) and subtract the unit Ne rating, giving a number that will show if the unit will stand.  There are inspiring characters within the army which make you re-roll, if a unit routs.

                               

7 or less – The unit remains steady

                8 to 9 -      The unit is wavering (disordered)

                10 or more- The unit routs and is removed from the game.         



To set up the game you both roll a dice and whoever rolls highest can choose to place the first unit or  elect that the opponent places first. Once all units are placed in the deployment zones (over 12” from centre of the table), you both roll another dice, winner chooses to go first or second. The game lasts about two hours or twelve turns (six each), and to find who won simply add the points of the opponents units that routed off, whoever scores the highest, wins. SIMPLES.

ARMIES- There are about  fourteen army list on the mantic site, and I am generating an Ogre list at the moment.

This rule set is a great fun set for anyone new to fantasy wargaming or anyone who cannot be bothered (or afford)with the GW WFB army books, as you need to know all the sneaky bits of your opponents armies to play WFB.

Sunday, 31 July 2011

Ogre Kingsdoms

Here is my collection of Ogre Kingdoms that has occupied my time for the past month or so. All purchased from ebay, so saved myself about £300.00, give or take
WIP So far
Lead Belchers: needs bases finished off
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Ironguts: needs bases finished off
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Ironguts Bellower (musician)
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Gorger : Needs base finished off
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Bulls : Needs Blood splatterings & and bases finished off
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Tyrant (Army General): Needs a bit more painting, Blood splatterings & base finished off
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Army Battle Standard: Needs a bit more painting, Blood splatterings & base finished off
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Two more Bull units and a unit of Lead Belchers
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Hunter and two sabretusks: To start
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Casualty markers : Most Ogres take 3 hits, some more ( I have another 50 odd heads to mount)
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I have about 50 Gnoblars (Goblin cousins) to start as well .


A couple of trolls Too:
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Sunday, 12 June 2011

About my hobby

I have been wargaming on and off (in my late teenage years, mostly off, football, alcohol and girls took preference ), for about forty years. My first foray was buying the Airfix soldiers and pitting them against each other. I have had a big interest of the Colonial, Napoleonic and American Civil war periods. Although WWII has been a big part of my wargaming past.

The first time I heard of the Battle of Waterloo was an advert outside of the Odeon Cinema on my way in to Saturday Morning Pictures as a young lad at the tender and impressionable age of twelve. After watching the film a week later I was well and truly hooked. Down to my local toy shop I hastened with the couple of pence to buy my first box of Napoleonic Infantry, the Highlanders. They had to fight my WWII Germans until I had saved enough for the French Infantry to fight them.
When I saw Zulu on the big screen, I was in awe of the brave British soldiers keeping the Zulu hords at bay, and although filled with a lot of inaccurate points, is still one of my favourite films.

                                                         What is wargaming

Some say wargaming is playing with toys soldiers, some will say refighting battles from history using accurate miniatures, or its like playing chess with lead figures. All the above are correct. Wargaming brings together people from all walks of life be they Accountants, Mechanics, bus drivers, whatever their chosen field wargaming brings opponents, who play to enjoy the challenge of pitting their chosen army against another and hopefully winning but above all "playing the game". Their are people who cheat and do their utmost to win, but eventually their opponents become fewer and fewer, but they are a minority (I must add). In general wargamers like talking, and boy can some talk. We will tell you about what rules we use , what periods we fight, how we paint our figures and make our terrain.

I wargame with painted figures and play on a table, hence tabletop wargaming. Seems a bit nerdy, but I enjoy it and each to their own as the saying goes. within each genre of gaming are various set of rules and different figure scales (height of figures).
The periods, scales and armies I wargame with:
Biblical to Medieval - 15mm - New Kingdom Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek(WIP), Roman, Germanic, Mongal, Hun, Indian, Viking, Saxon, Norman, War of the Roses.
Renaissance - 15mm - Henry VIIIs army (Still work in progress at the moment).
Ancient - 28mm -Imperial Rome, Viking, Norman.
English Civil War - 28mm - Royalist Army (doubles for both sides)
Napoleonic - 15mm - Austrian, Bavarian, British, French, Prussian, Russian, Spanish.
Napoleonic - 6mm - French.
Colonial - 28mm - Zulu war British and Zulu Armies.
Colonial - 6mm - Sudan Egyptian, British and Mahdists.
American Civil War - 15mm - Both Sides Union (North) and Confederate (South)
American Civil War - 1/600th - Naval (Ironclads, both sides)
World War II - 6mm - German (Huge Army, about 3 Armoured and 4 Infantry Corps).
World War II - 20mm - American, German (eearly & late), German Afrika Korps and Italian.
World War II - 28mm - American, German, Japanese, Burma British.
Fantasy - 28mm - Orc, Goblin, Night Goblin, Lizardmen, Bretonian, Ogre Kingdoms, Troll & Giant.
Fantasy - 15mm - Orc & Goblin, Arthurian Legend, Eastern Barbarians.

The rules I use:
Ancients - DBM, Warmaster Ancients.
Medieval - DBM, Tactica.
English Civil War - 1644
Napoleonic - Shako, Irregular
Colonial - Principle of War, Own house rules.
American Civil War - Johnny Reb II, Fire and Fury.
World War II - 6mm - Spearhead.
World War II - 20mm - Rapid Fire, Panzer Marsch, Operation WWII
World War II -28mm - Disposable Heroes, At the Sharp End.
Fantasy - 28mm - Kings of War, Wahammer Fantasy Battles, Armies of Arcana (just started)
Fantasy - 15mm - Hordes of the Things.

I also have a few boardgames:
Kingmaker.
Napoleon in Europe.
Risk.

Monday, 2 May 2011

Rules & All That

RULES AND ALL THAT
or
What rules to use for a particular game or period you are playing?.

Some clubs from around the country play one set of rules for a period and all the members of that club play that set of rules that the club has chosen to play. The advantage is that anyone can play anyone in the club with little notice and the game on the night will flow fairly easily and turns will be taken quickly and should get a result within the evening. Any “grey” areas or rule queries are kept down to a minimum due to everyone knowing the rules and “umpires” a plenty. The downside is that any potential new members get railroaded to play that set as played by the club, although he/ she may have all the rules, army lists and supplements, they basically have to start again by Buying, reading and learning a new system and probably adjusting their own army. The advantage is lots of opponents.and umpires around on a club evening.
We at the Warlords are not the above club, why is this?. Well I will start by looking at the background of our members, many who have joined many years ago, through a connection with Games Workshop or like myself and others have come from playing historical games. Some have come from playing board games, D&D, re-enactment, model making, reading (Fiction or Factual) and some none of the above.
Within these areas the strongest “bond” of one rule set to rule them all is obviously Games Workshop, who still adjust and amend rule to “tweek” certain armies to new product, which then brings with it a whole new expense of re-buying all the literature you have already bought but is now out of date. You have admire their marketing!. Then there are middle ground sets where two or more sets are used within a period like Flames of War, BlitzKrig Commander and Panzer Marsch, Rapid Fire for WWII and for Napoleonic we play Shako and General de Brigade, American Civil War rules like Johnny Reb, Brother against Brother . Then we have the rest where there are a plethora of rule sets are used. Last but not least there is the rule set graveyard, purchased, read sometimes tried out and then put at the back of the cupboard to end its life in the recycle box.
With so many rules on the market which ones are the best?. What makes a good set of rules?. Does playability take preference to historical accuracy, i.e. quick to learn, fast play but lacking in subtleties of troop type or vehicle. Fast play rules have their drawbacks but if they are quick to learn are you likely to get more opponents? They allow people to “dip” their toes into a new period, by skimming the surface of the era in question.
Before Rapid Fire came along I had never played WWII, my periods were covered up to 1900 (when Queen Victoria died, here endeth wargaming!). I had tried Command Decision, but as a freshman new nothing of the period and got no advice from the members I was playing with and got a sound thrashing, I have never played those rules or that player since.
Then Barney came down the club and suggested Rapid Fire, and we have played them (with a few house rules) for possibly ten plus years-ish. As time went on we wanted something more from the game but were not sure what it was that we wanted. So we bought various rule sets skirmish, platoon, Company, Battalion, Divisional and even Army levels. We found a comfortable medium in Panzer Marsch Playability of Rapid Fire (Panzer Marsch were written ten years prior to the release of Rapid Fire by the same wargames club) but with a great anti-tank system, which is a little more believable than Rapid Fire (Stuarts taking out Tigers!!!). Also the morale is an important element, which makes you take woods/buildings as you move across the battlefield. Would you just advance passed a wood without sending in some troops to reconnoitre it? It could be full of the enemy waiting to attack you in the rear (ooh err matron). Unfortunately others in our shallow end don’t like the rules (I can’t see why) and just refuse to play them, but that’s OK. each to their own as they say. So on a club night we play Rapid Fire and when we play against each other we play Panzer Marsch.
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Other periods have the same effect as above, I think Napoleonic battles should be at least Divisional size and so do not partically enjoy General de Brigade but prefer to play Shako which covers much larger battles as well. We can play Waterloo in an evening with Shako Large Battle supplement. With American Civil War rules I prefer Johnny Reb II. Fire & Fury came out a few years ago which gained a lot of interest in the competiton circuit, so Johnny Reb II became III which all who played it after having played Johnny Reb II said they had tried to make them similar to Fire & Fury. I had never played JR III as I was happy with JRII . I have played huge games with Fire & Fury and they work quite well.
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Principles of War is not only a good colonial set of rules but actually work well for other horse & musket periods like ACW, Franco- Prussian. The rules comes with army lists in the back of the book, but you can buy other army books which cover all the conflicts from Waterloo to Mons. PoW also do Napoleonic rules which I have played a couple of times and seem quite good.

Pike and Shot period rules, which GW released a few years back (although I have not played them so cannot comment on them) I use the early Wargames Foundry backed rules 1644, but have just downloaded Victory without Quarter (to see how they play)
The above ramblings are my own thoughts, many other club members have their preferred set of rules and their reasonings are their own, but it is not for me to say which rules are correct for a particular period, I like others have my preferences.

Garrr! Thar be Pirates

                                Here are a few of the figures from My collection.
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                                The Spanish
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                                The Spanish Work in progress
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                                The Marines
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                                The RN
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                                 More bad guys
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                                Some o me fleet
                                Neptune's Plunder
ships

Neptunes plunder

ships

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                                I turned this
pirate ship


                                Into this
                                The Sea Wolf
Sea Wolf

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                                This is in progress at the moment
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USUTHU

By Phil Portway
SOUTH LONDON WARLORDS

Mention the word Zulu to most people and they will reminisce about Michael Cane in the 1964 film of the same name. Understandably so as it was and still is a great film, stirring songs, great lines (Why us?...Because we ‘ere lad, and theres no-body else) loads of extras great battle action and almost historical in its content (which even for the most avid Zulu war fanatic does not detract from the fact it’s a great movie).

The film was made mainly due to Stanley Baker (who played the Engineer, Chard in the film),who had read an article about the VC’s that were won on the 22nd / 23rd January 1879.

I feel that The Washing of the Spears to be an epic and important book on the history of, and the rise and fall of the Zulu nation. I have read the book a few times and it gave me a great incite into the Zulu as a warrior nation (and probably could be said of any number of African warrior nations). From its infancy of when the Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama saw the land of the Zulu in the 15th century, (although the Zulu had a longer history before that time) to when it ceased to become a nation when it came under Imperial rule in 1879 when invaded by the British

A short history of the Zulu

The Zulu people rose to become a powerful nation under King Shaka who came to power in 1816 and created a Zulu military system and introduced a new weapon, the broad bladed stabbing spear (Iklwa). Shaka led his nation through conquest of other tribes and bringing them under the “wing” of the Zulu. The Zulu made great importance of cattle which, was used for currency, their clothes and of course food. These herds of cattle required paster and each area of land where the King’s cattle roamed, he would place a regiment of warriors in a military kraal to “police” the area and look after the cattle. These regiments (ibutho) would all be of the same age group (within a two to five years gap) and would grow up, fight and after military service were allowed to marry. As regiments matured in age they would occasionally join it with a younger regiment, so they can benefit from the elders experience. They remained in the regiments all their life, although some would go back to their original village, they would always muster at the regimental kraal in times of war which under Shaka was most of the time.

In September1828 Dingane, (Shaka’s half brother and murderer) took over the rule of the Zulu nation. A man lacking Shaka’s military mind, felt that expansion of the Zulu was not the way forward, but decided to consolidate their lands. Shaka’s favourites were either killed or fled, some to Natal to join the Matabele.The Warrior regiments raised by Shaka were allowed to marry and disband and in turn Dingane formed new regiments on his personal patronage. The main threat to the Zulu was to come from Natal in the form of hunters and Boer trekkers culminating in the Battle of Blood River where the Zulu took very heavy losses attacking a laager of wagons defended by Artillery, firearms and horse. Eventually Dingane was forced to move north and soon lost control of his nation as Mpande (his half-brother) defected with half his army to the Boers and after a short civil war, Dingane’s army was defeated. In March 1840 Dingane was assassinated.

Mpande had already been declared King of the Zulu (February 1840). Mpande lived until 1872 and died a natural death, but the Zulu nation was little more than a third of its former size when his son Cetshwayo KaMpande took to the throne, raising new regiments and began to expand the Zulu lands once more..

Road to War

Sir Bartle Frere, British High Commissioner in South Africa believed there was a threat from the Cetshwayo’s Zulu nation being that its economy was self reliant and as such were a powerbase within Souhern Africa. Frere thought that there was no place for the Zulu in the new South African Union.

In December 1878, Frere sent Cetshwayo an ultimatum of some nine demands. The Zulu would have to relinquish land, a major part of their cattle herds and the army would have to stand down. These items being the mainstay of Frere’s threat, along with the added bullying of an Imperial invasion to boot. Frere knew the King would not agree and had already informed Lieutenant-General Lord Chelmsford to ready his army for the forthcoming invasion. Cetshwayo declined the offer and the road to war was inevitable. Without sanction from Whitehall, Frere had declared war on behalf of the crown, which would have costly consequences if there was not a decisive and speedy victory.

Invasion

Chelmsford invaded Zululand on Sunday 12th January 1879 with three of five columns, two of which would act as reserves.

• No.1 Column, Col. Pearson situated at the Lower Drift of the Tugela River.
• No.2 Column, Col. Durnford was the reserve at the Middle Drift.
• No.3 Column, Col Glyn was situated at Rorke,s Drift.
• No.4 Column, Col Wood was situated at Bemba’s Kop.
• No.5 Column, Col Rowlands was the reserve at Luneburg.



Main Battles of The Zulu War

• 22ndJanuary Isandlwana
• 22ndJanuary Nyzane
• 22nd -/23rd January Rorkes Drift
• 12th March Ntombe River
• 28th March Hlobane
• 29th March Khambula
• 23rd January – 3rd April Siege of Eshowe
• 2nd April Gingindlovu
• 4th July Ulundi

Isandlwana was a debacle with supply of ammo, cartridges getting jammed in the breaches of the Martini-Henry, disposition of troops. Many historians and experts on the period have their own opinions, many feasible, some eccentric and some ludicrous, but they are allowed their opinions.
Rorkes Drift was attacked by a fresh Zulu impi on the same day as the Column at Isandlwana and that so impi had not fought at Isandlwana and could not have used the Martini-Henry rifle against the mission defenders. Some think that one of the reasons so many Victoria Crosses were awarded to the defenders of Rorkes Drift was due to the Debacle at Isandlwana and the British Empire needed heroes in this dark time.

Aftermath of invasion

Word of the massacre of the Imperial force at Isandlwana reached London on 11th February 1879 and consequently Prime Minister Disraeli and his conservative government had been forced into a war by Frere’s actions and it could ill-afford to lose in a time of recession which England was suffering at the time. Although the government held Frere responsible for the failed invasion and massacre, reinforcements were sent from British Colonies and Disraeli hoped for a quick and decisive victory to end the campaign.
The Zulu army became “tired” after Isandlwana and although it had a few minor victories it could not fight on all fronts in mass and it could not stop the might of arms against him. Modern warfare had come to the Zulu Kingdom and South Africa changed for ever.




The fall of a Nation

On the 4th July 1879 Lord Chelmsford had advanced with five thousand troops, in square, on the Kings Kraal at Ulundi. Modern weapons such as Gatling Guns, breach loading artillery pieces took many Zulu lives. The battle of Ulundi lasted less than an hour leaving one thousand five hundred dead Zulus on the ground. The Zulu army was routed by cavalry and lancers. Many more Zulu warriors lost their lives in the days after the defeat at Ulundi. Cetshwayo was captured in Late August when he handed himself in to Sir Garnet Wolseley at his beloved and now ruined Kraal of Ulundi. Cetshwayo was exiled in Cape Town and died in 1884 in his beloved Zululand.
After its capitulation, Zululand was split between three pro-British Chieftans and in the years that followed civil wars broke out.

Usuthu the Idea

I have enjoyed the Colonial period for many years but unfortunately always played the native force, the Imperial player would set out his square and start firing, game over. Then came Principles of War rules and if you stick to the order system, you as a native player can actually beat the Imperial armies.

My thoughts on this game were to let the players have the challenge of playing Zulus and the Imperial and Colonial forces would be Umpire controlled, but most of all two words came to mind…..Achievable and fun. When ever we (myself and co-defendant Dave Barnes) have put participation games on in the past, we always homespin the rules so they are easy to understand and play and due to the complex system most commercial rules employ, they would take ages to explain.

We have preferred to use card driven system (Hunt for the Lonely Queen being one) as they are the best way to involve various occurrences that have to happen without explaining why they have happened and one deck of cards can be many things such as firing, melee, morale or movement. This in turn frees up the use of dice and questions what do I need?, as the result is on the card ( and not on the floor as another dice disappears under the table or knocks over scenary).

First we talk about the set up of units and what is the “goal” of both sides. Then we look at length of game, movement of troops and the amount of troops under each command. We have found that all the player needs to know is how fast can I move and who can I kill?. We as umpires and the cards determine the rest.

We have sessions normally a over a couple of evenings where we thrash out ideas. Once we have a basic game on paper we then work out the fun bits like the event cards which, if you have ever played Soldiers of the Queen you will know where we’re coming from. But we make sure there is a good mix so as not to over balance the game one way or another. When co-writing rules make sure you all agree with one part before moving on to the next phase or the rules become disjointed and before you know it you are back to square one because you feel they don’t work (when all they needed was to be in the right order).We then usually have a couple of games between ourselves before unleashing on the club members and then the final set ready for the wargaming public.

The Game

Our game is set around a British camp with the Zulu players in a crescent opposite, the Zulu achieves victory points by destroying the British and Colonial forces and in turn taking the camp and the British gain victory by surviving and destroying Zulu forces. See the first bit is easy, next comes the hard part.

Each Zulu player controls an Impi of four bases and from the deck he is dealt two cards of which one can be used to order his Impi. The card he has chosen is the order and is placed face up in front of his Impi. Next the Imperial force receive one card each unit, face up in front of each unit.
Next is the random event card which is announced as it may effect one or more of the units or either side on table or off table.
The order on the card is then carried out in a strict order of firing, movement, melee and morale from melee outcome (Imperial force only as the Zulus would by now have bloodlust).
Firing. The British Fire with a number of cards per rank from the deck and the Zulus respond with a card from the deck. Difference between cards are the casualties inflicted on the Target. Colonial firing is one card and half casualties from NNC firing.
Movement. Zulus use shields and half shields (9” and 4”respectively) , British and Colonials use ammo box piles Forward or backward (6” and 3” respectively). .
Melee. Each Zulu unit in base contact draws two cards from the deck and adds the number of figures left in the unit. The Imperials draw one unless they are Cavalry or defending an obstacle. Difference between the cards are the casualties inflicted on the unit with the lower score. Zulus use best result if multiple units in base to base with Imperials. Units that lose melee move back one base depth., pushing back any units to their rear.
Morale. None required for Zulu units. British test after 50% casualties. Colonial will run after melee even if they win!
We have added cavalry, lancers and artillery just to cover all options. The rules would work for most colonial period with a little modification here and there, but the mechanics would be the same.

The rules were available at Shows and all proceeds went to charity.

                                                         Game set and ready to go
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                                                             My Kids Messing about!
Zulu  kids